屏東──背山面海的熱帶之都

作者序

《台灣挑剔指南》是 2017 年春天出版的《台北挑剔指南》續作,身為一個土生土長的台中人,在書寫完台北後若是沒有回頭介紹台中,內心總有點過意不去。 台北是個可愛、對旅人友善的城市,是認識台灣的最佳起點。


不過台灣各地也有著自己的個性與姿態,一個都不能被忽略。

因此,原本規劃僅收錄北、中、南、東部重點城市的《台灣挑剔指南》,最後還是決定要完整介紹各個縣市與離島,這個選擇雖然讓每個地方的篇幅縮小,但仍有機會收錄各地的風格店家、年度活動與深度特輯,成為探索台灣的引子。我們也在每個縣市的簡介頁面提供了許多資訊管道,如相關書籍與旅遊網站等,讓大家可以自行挖掘更多資訊。

《台灣挑剔指南》延續上本書的精神,裡面沒有任何廣告,收錄的店家從新開的獨立書店、祕密酒吧到菜市場與路邊攤等,都是作者群們誠心推薦朋友去的地方。除了部分離島外,大多縣市也規劃了1至2條的散步路線,希望讓大家能夠輕鬆出遊,說走就走!

如果要用一句話來介紹台灣,我覺得沒有比台灣言論自由鬥士鄭南榕先生更好的描述了──「我們是小國小民,但是我們是好國好民。」如同台北是被低估的城市,台灣也絕對是被低估的國家,雖然有點老王賣瓜、自賣自誇的意味,但在旅行多國後,我可以很自信地說,台灣絕對是世界上數一數二生活起來既舒服又有趣的地方。

趕快來吧,只要來一次,你就會知道所謂好國好民,好在哪裡!

屏東──背山面海的熱帶之都
PingTung——Tropical Land with Hills Behind and the Ocean in front

位處台灣最南端的屏東縣,南北狹長、四季如春,這裡散居著原住民、閩南、客家等多元族群,擁有豐富的文化面貌。這裡並不像台灣其他城市迅速走上工業化之路,反而處處充滿性格,蘊藏意想不到的可能。

像是大武山腳下的屏北地區,不但有現存最古老的教堂建築,更種植出世界上品質最優良的可可;沿海的東港地區,由35萬顆蚵殼打造的燈會主燈「海之女神」成為地方新地標。向南來到陽光燦爛的恆春鎮,不時會望見全台保存最完整的百年城牆;再往南抵達台灣首座國家公園所在地——墾丁,隨處都能碰上被湛藍海洋吸引而來、曬得一身黝黑的國內外衝浪愛好者。

屏東除了引以為傲的生態景觀與蔬果農產外,近期也有許多風格小店出現,15年開始舉辦原民藝術音樂祭典「斜坡上的藝術節」,台灣設計展也在 2019年首度於此開展,讓屏東展現有別於以往的風貌。總之要是膩了大城市的生活,就來國境之南吧,讓南方的陽光,療癒疲憊的身心。

Located at the very south of Taiwan, the oblong county of Pingtung has the privilege of enjoying nice weather year round. The residents here consist of indigenous, Minnan, Hakka and other ethnic groups, giving this land a diverse culture. Instead of hastily pursuing industrialization like other cities in Taiwan, Pingtung retains its original character and shows endless possibilities. In the Pingbei area under the hill of Dawu Mountain that is also called Kavulungan in the indigenous Paiwan language, you will find the oldest church in Taiwan and some of the best-quality chocolate in the world. By the sea in Donggang Township, a new landmark has formed—The Goddess of the Sea, a lantern art installation built with 350,000 oyster shells. In the sunny Hengchun Township, the well-preserved, century-old town walls, nowhere else to be found in Taiwan, accompany you on your journey. Kenting (Kending)National Park, the first national park to open in Taiwan, is the place to meet surfers from around the world, all come to challenge the azure ocean.

Besides the worth-mentioning natural scenery and fresh produce, an abundance of cultural activities have been emerging in this area over the past few years, such as stylish shops and stores, and the Isenasena indigenous music festival which started in 2015. It was even decided that the 2019 Taiwan Design Expo would open in Pingtung for the first time. These active cultural scenes bring a fresh new look to Pingtung. If you are tired of bustling city life, just come to the south of the island and let the southern sun rejuvenate your exhausted body and mind.
交通
台北往屏東可搭乘高鐵至高雄左營站 (約 2 小時),再轉搭台鐵至屏東站,約需 40 分鐘左右。市區內有公共自行車Pbike可租借,但強烈建議租汽、機車代步,若打算繼續前往恆春或墾丁,會方便許多。
To get to Pingtung from Taipei by public transportation, first catch the HSR to Zuoying Station, which takes about 2 hours. Then transfer to the TRA and travel to Pingtung Station, which takes about 40 minutes. When traveling in Pingtung City, although Pbike (public bike-sharing service)is available around town, renting a scooter or a car is highly advisable in the event you decide to travel further south to Hengchun or Kenting.

旅遊書籍
THE PLACE: PINGTUNG《本地 The Place 03:屏東》
從文化、習俗、人物等多角度切入,目前最棒的屏東深度旅遊書
Currently one of the best Pingtung travel guides, covering the culture, the customs and the people

books.com.tw/products/0010820636

在地刊物
VERY PINGTUNG《屏東本事》
由屏東縣政府發行的季刊,編輯用心,可線上閱讀
Diligent quarterly magazine covering local affairs published by the Pingtung government

e-book:www.pthg.gov.tw/cp.aspx?n=33321C846BA15DA3  

AMAZING PINGTUNG
由屏東縣政府發行的在地資訊雙月刊,可線上閱讀
Diligent bimonthly magazine covering local affairs published by the Pingtung government e-book:www.pthg.gov.tw/Link3.aspx?n=9238A86FB315F514  

TOURISM BROCHURE OF PINGTUNG《關於屏東的6件事》
一發刊就被搶光的旅遊手冊,共有咖啡、甜點、米食、閱讀、山、海6本
Six highly in-demand Pingtung travel brochures titled Coffee, Dessert, Rice, Cuisine, Read, Mountain and Sea

e-book:issuu.com/pthgwebsite

NEW WAYS TO EXPLORE SOUTHERN TAIWAN《南島新玩樣》
2019墾丁社區生態旅遊手冊,中英文版皆可線上閱讀
Kenting’s community ecotourism guide for 2019. On-line versions are available in Chinese and English

中文:issuu.com/lishaneco/docs/kenting_ecotourism-ch-2016
English:issuu.com/ lishaneco/docs/kenting_ecotourism

旅遊網站
I-PINGTUNG TRAVEL GUIDE屏東縣觀光旅遊網
屏東市旅遊官方網站,少數比較好看的政府網頁
Pingtung government’s official online travel guide (one of the better looking ones)

i-pingtung.com

UUKT悠遊墾丁
最完整的墾丁、恆春旅遊資訊網站,規劃墾丁行程必備
One of the most comprehensive Kenting and Hengchun travel websites. An essential planning tool

uukt.com.tw

TAIWAN NEW FOOD屏食樂趣
分享屏東美食店家的臉書粉絲專頁
Facebook page sharing information about good food and restaurants in Pingtung
FB:taiwannewfood

導覽
PEARL PINGTUNG南國小藝思.沐光私旅行
不定期舉辦社區、在地小旅行,網站也有推薦行程
Providing short, irregularly scheduled local/community trips and recommended itineraries

FB:pearlpingtung | topcape.com.tw

LISHAN ECO COM森社場所
以里山為中心思想,推廣生態旅遊的在地團隊
Local team promoting the Satoyama Initiative and ecotourism

年度活動
HEAR HERE FEST (OCT.)半島歌謠祭 (10月)
在恆春舉辦的國際民謠音樂節,邀請大家一起來同歡
International world music festival in Hengchun that welcomes everyone

FB:hearherefest

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GOOD EYE 台灣挑剔指南

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GOOD EYE 台灣挑剔指南

郭佩怜 等著

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